Old Towns: the wooden, paved hearts of Plovdiv (see the last entry) and Veliko Tarnovo are gorgeous.
Ruins without hordes of tourists: Plovdiv's amphitheatre and Tarnovo's Tsavarets Fortress are awesome.
She's Queen of the Castle
Tarnovo's scenery: whoever decided to stick a town in the middle of a winding, forested canyon, appreciated a good view.
Cheap meals: $20 gets a damn good meal for two, with drinks. Yay!
Meeting great people: the nice Bulgarians are really nice, and we had one of the best dinners of the trip talking to Ryan and Helen, Americans on their own global honeymoon tour.
Driving: Bulgarians learnt their overtaking at the Bangkok Academy of Tuktuk Driving.
"Though I drive through the mountain pass of the shadow of death ..."Women's fashion: to paraphrase Lauren, most young women look like they're on the way to 'pimps and skanks' themed party.
Transport to Turkey: despite the main road going past it, no bus stops at Edirne, a big town on the Turkish/Bulgarian border. This means we have to take the overnight train back to Istanbul, adding on more than a few hours to our trip to Gallipoli and depriving us of the chance to see one of the best mosques in the country.
Smoking. Anywhere, anytime, every time. I was stoked to see a no-smoking section in one restaurant, but when we returned there for dinner the guy next to us lit up. Grrrr.
Apartment blocks: calling these omnipresent decaying concrete hulks monstrously ugly is an insult to monsters.
Customer service: 'happy as a Bulgarian shop assistant' is not a phrase you'll hear anytime soon, unless it's describing the clinically depressed. With a few honourable exceptions, Bulgarian service staff appear to model themselves on Grumpy Smurf and the Snow Queen.